Day 18 Arcadia to Riverside acres Honor 22.8 miles

Well amazing we woke and it 22 degrees c at 7 am I guess summer really is here . After a long day and hills yesterday we both slept extremely well of course a few beers to help . So well we did not hear the attack of the pannier again and yes the same one . But I had left it loose at the top so I think wreckers little paw got into the fruit obviously not a tomato fan . According to the camp owner there is a raccoon around but also a little black bear has moved back into the area . I prefer to think it was a raccoon even though she said the bears are harmless.

We had our cereal tea then a coffee from camp and headed off straight into the climb . What a heart starter for the morning. I took it steadily as the neighbor to camp was carted off to hospital last night with an expected heart attack he had just finished riding those hills . When we reached the lookout it was spectacular and clear .

Remembering that every uphill has a down which can be quite quick even loaded up . You have to be on the lookout for deer crossing so that holds me back at 30 miles per hour a deer would not be pretty nor would I !!

We rolled along the edge of the road plentifully space staying away from what they call rumble bars to wake you if your a car driver if your a cyclist they scramble your brains .

Accommodation was very hard to find we rolled into Alberta just before Frankfort and partook in a smoothie and muffin . It was 30 degrees c today just as well a little breeze was about . While we sat in the air conditioning we phoned to find a place to stay any where . We have decided we feel much more relaxed and enjoy the ride more when we know we have somewhere to pitch the tent or a bed for the night . With the help of the cafe owner and referring local hoteliers we found a rustic cottage inland at a town called Honour . Riverside acres on the Platte river .

After leaving Alberta we got straight into the Betsie river trail it was magic riding in the shade on a hot day .

The trail rolled along the front of all these very wealthy homes everybody out preparing for today’s celebrations for July 4 Independence Day children selling lemonade Greg stopped and bought some

We passed through the town of Beulah where they were about to have their parade I think two cycle tourists riding down the Main Street with everybody sitting on the footpaths waiting looked quite amusing

We stopped at the end of the street to buy supplies where a gentleman told us both we had a climb ahead so not too many beers . The route wound its way down by the water then up through the country roads very nice .

We passed the open air picture theatre Cherry Bowl.

We were back on highway 31 for a short time until we arrived at our destination Riverside Acres .

Now where to tomorrow??

Well we are staying here and will ride out to sleeping bear dunes .

Day 17 Scottville to Arcadia 47 miles

After a wonderful sleep at Scottville at our amazing hosts for the night we were off at 9 with instructions of how to go on the quietist roads , yesterday s Highway 10 from Ludington to Scottville not one of my better decisions as the traffic was fast busy horrible and no cycling edge . We went up Stiles road which was fine seeing a whole family of deer crossing the road it was a good ride today and yes we found hills these have been non existent until now .

We stopped at Manistee where for the first time we did get some abuse yelled at us from cars !! Maybe those going. North for Independence Day tomorrow We stopped at the old Manistee boat for morning tea

We new it would be hard to find accommodation as it’s a busy time of year we got to Onekama but no luck so had to keep riding . We tried the camp at Bear lake by phone but were told all full so continued down an amazing steep gradient when we got to Arcadia they phoned us to say they had a spot but no way were we riding back so plodded on

After being rejected at several places in Arcadia we were thinking we might be cycling through the night but just before another big climb we saw the sunset resort which was full but kindly let us pitch our small tent saying I looked like I had had enough cycling today and they were correct it was also 29 degrees c so summer is here . Our view from our drinks spot this evening

Day 16 Exploring Ludington and Scottville

Well another experience spent the night in the Ventura motel pleasantly surprised by the comfort affordability and breakfast in the office in the morning . Trying to find the positives when you wake in the pouring rain . Great here in the US you don’t have to vacate until 1100 so we went leisurely and bb 9 the rain had ceased .

We decided to ride out to the State park only about 7 Miles from town . We felt like we had entered an ocean area there were sand dunes everywhere . We also had to stop and remove the wet weather gear as the sun was pressing through the clouds .

We arrived at the state park and as we were in bikes were able to freely ride around and down to the beach . The pleasant attendant directed us down to the beach pavilion which was set up with information and an amazing old built believe had been moved there

We saw the most people in the lake swimming since we were on this visit . The beach appeared to have quite shallow water and was set out for swimmers to do laps

I have found the 2 extremes here in the states for war on waste and these people were doing an excellent job . A very protected area . Even the bench seats were recycled plastic .

Even recycled cigarette butts well done to you .

Inside the pavilion it was a fund of information about the envoy of the lake I thoroughly enjoyed .

We ventured back into the town as there was no other way north and set off to see our new friends in Scottville so lovely to be able to experience the home life as well as being in the road . Here’s hoping for more fine days as we have decided to ride north onwards for another adventure , due to hills we are shedding some of our load and will pick it up in the return visit , many thanks to Caroline and Robert .

Forgot to mention we had the best coffee at the internet cafe in Ludington.

Day 15 Twin Rivers to Ludington via the SS Badger

Awoke early as usual day light is around 4.30 am at this time of year. I had recharged all the electronic devices the beauty of staying in accomodation. I do carry a solar panel but there needs to be constant sunshine for this to recharge the power packs and the weather is still so changeable . It was another foggy morning caused by the warm air temperature hitting the cold lake water accounting our waitress at breakfast. Not much of a view but enough to see a family of Canada geese swimming by .

We were able to ride out the door and onto the Marina trail along the lake down to Manitowoc only about 7 miles . The art work and gardens were looking lovely this morning.

Having time to spare before boarding the Badger we decided to look through the Maritime museum and had a fixed tour on The Cobia submarine. All very interesting

We had our picnic lunch in the nearby park and boarded the Badger a very old Car and passenger ferry . On board there was entertainment such as Bingo , small places to buy food watch TV or sit on the deck . Unfortunately good coffee is hard to find .

It is a 4 hour journey across the Lake on the only steam vessel in service. We were lucky it was a very calm day . Although we carefully lashed our bikes .

On the way out of Manitowoc we passed the lighthouse which has recently been bought privately and refurbished . You can walk out to this .

We arrived in Ludington the breeze was cool and sky cloudy . We had checked in to a local motel as not knowing the area and arriving late , with time change we lose an hour crossing to this side

Tomorrow we decide on where we ride next maybe North .

Day 14 Kauwanee to Twin Rivers 29 miles

Well we woke to a severe weather warning and those you cannot ignore . We had slept pretty well at the Rv and cabin campground at Kauwanee. We drifted off to sleep listening to the frogs chirping . Everywhere we have been there is a lot of surface water laying unfortunately increasing the mosquito population. The weather had said rain by nine am Greg says nothing makes me cycle faster than a good nights sleep and a weather warning. With that we decided to ride down highway 42. We thought Sunday traffic would be pretty quiet and we were pleased all was good . With a few hills we were able to roll along at 15 miles per hour our fastest leg in this trip

We arrived in twin rivers just before the rain started and booked ourselves into the Lighthouse inn very comfy and the bikes could be on our floor inside which always makes us feel more released that they are safe . On arrival we ran into another cycle route Sharon from Illinois she was sheltering from the storm before moving on to camp at state point national park . We were able to swap stories and travel experiences over hot coffee. It was truly lovely. I took this photo while sitting in the restaurant of the passing storm .

We bid our farewells settled into our room then went out for a walk yes sun was starting to shine and it was warm again . We stumbled across Washington house and historic place which was full of memorabilia and history this was where the original ice cream sundae came from as well as Charleston Heston the actor .

This museum of history was full of everything from kitchen appliances to army uniforms dating back to last century even old medical and dental equipment it was really interesting. We decide not to finish our learning with an ice cream sundae but plenty of people were.

We saved our appetite to have beers and dinner at the Waverley hotel another grey spot to drink and eat with friendly staff and cheap meals

Tomorrow we are off across the lake on the SS Badger

Day 13 Timber trail camp to Kauwanee. 29 miles

Well after yesterday ‘s long ride we had a shorter one today and the weather turned hot . It was pleasant under the trees as we rode .

It was actually hot waking this morning nice to be able to pack up dry .

After our usual oats and dry fruit Greg started to get peckish Around 11.30 so we decided to have an early lunch at Casco . We had to turn off the trail and a very helpful local told us Village cafe was the one 4 blocks up . In a flash we were there. A truly American cafe .So we decided to sit up at the semi circular bar and eat .

We finished the trail at trailhead at Kauwanee. Overall the trail is firmly packed limestone with 2 single tracks to cycle on . There are some gradual climbs and descents but jotting too elevated . It is a lot of the same and I was amazed not a toilet along the trail. I think we have been spoilt by the trails we have ridden in differ t countries such as A2 O in NZ. It made it easy for us off the main highways and not having to negotiate routes or traffic . Both days tracker map

Day 12 Baileys harbour to Ahnapee river camping ground 51 miles

Well after a very wet night we packed up headed out of Baileys harbour but not before stopping for breakfast at the Heirloom cafe and provisions near the camping ground . Best ever breakfast healthy no sugar and different.

Breakfast bowl with egg shredded chicken beans quinoa very tasty and gave us energy for the day Along with an egg Sammy delicious.

Leaving Baileys harbour was nothing like we had seen the night before as there was a thick wetting fog the rain had stopped which was a blessing so we headed out down the highway . Where at least we new we wouldn’t get lost or go in circles on such a day . We retraced the route we had gone north around the lake to sturgeon Bay . We tried to stop and have a snack along Glidden drive that traces the lake side but the mosquitoes did not allow they swarmed on us . By the time we reached Lily Bay boat landing where we previously had lunched on our way north the sun was trying to break through the clouds and fog and the temperature was rising so the layers of clothing came off . My new beaut waterproof cycling jacket I purchased from NZ ground effects had really proved its worth in the last 24 hours . We had our usual cycling lunch of crackers with cheese with a little chocolate treat and carried on with a higher spirit it was going to be fine . Our plan today once through Sturgeon bay was to go into the Ahnapee state trail hoping it wouldn’t be boggy after the rain . It was hard packed limestone single track with lovely flowers lining the two tracks .

The lake with thick fog .

The Ahnapee state trail

We were really enjoying the trail and planned to stay around Maplewood but alas nowhere there to stay so continued on to Forestville hoping for something there but no go with the thought of riding through to Algoma I was forced to have ice cream from the service station , as it was only another 5 miles . While riding we came to the Ahnapee river camping ground the sun still shining to dry out our wet tent from the previous night and a very pleasant owner who showed us a spot on the hill no one else there no big RV or campers absolutely perfect. We were also able to have a swim in the pool heated to 80 degrees f . Felt very pleasant along with the best hot showers we accomplished another great day . One of the great things camping in the US every campsite has a table there was no need for Greg to carry our 2 stools !!!

day 11 Washington Island to Baileys harbour

Well we woke to another beautiful sunny Island day . Today we bid farewell to our warm shower hosts Pat and Doug . The most generous couple with a real cycling pedigree. Pat and Doug cycled with us to the boat and showed us another part of the island we had not seen . More quiet roads lined with beautiful green maple trees .

We stopped to view the Stavkirke church a building very beautiful and Norwegian in influence . Belonging to the local Lutheran church an amazing peaceful place

We arrived down just as the ferry was loading and today it was really quiet not many people returning to Door Peninsula.

Pat our host had kindly mapped out a quieter route for us off the highway we were off to Baileys Harbour after our trying to cycle there the other day and ending up in Egg harbour. We found our way there with only one small error . On the way off Q county highway we turned at Uncle Toms original candy shop so of course had to sample some chocolate fudge and delicious it was

We found our way down Q county road to Baileys harbour where we stayed in a local campground and are doing washing as it has been some time .

Washington Island to Rock Island day 10

Well today was a little different we cycled to Jackson Bay harbour and caught the ferry to Rock Island . No cycling or cars allowed only tramping . That gave a legs a good stretch . The ferry was on time to the second and we were told by the Captain it leaves on the hour and at Rock Island 15 minutes after the hour . He lived up to his word .

On arrival there we pulled into the jetty beside this amazing boathouse all these buildings the remains of the original Scandinavian owner .

Seeing it was such a lovely day we decided to head for the beach walking through the grass reminded me of walking through the grass out west in Australia with so many grasshoppers flying around . When we arrived at the beach it looked beautiful but that water was still pretty cold but very refreshing

We swam to the right of here the beach had sand compared to the pebbles . We decided to walk to the lighthouse but checked out the camp sites in the way which looked great .there were a lot of black flies which seemed to nip and also a lot of mosquitoes on the island, this was during the day so I guess night would be worse . . The track was very shady and pretty as it winded it’s way through the island .

We took a trail through the centre of the island to the lighthouse and were pleasantly surprised at its restoration and free guided tour by a volunteer couple .

The inside restoration was well done

We climbed to the top and enjoyed the views

Looking out at the new light not a structure of beauty . We ended up walking just over 10 km a change for the cycling legs .

Day 9 Sister Bay to Washington island 25 miles

Set off from Waterfall motel learnt from our warm shower host that we had to get the ferry from Newport not Gill Rock as that is the passenger one and you have to return in a day . Made good time with a tailwind and sun shining so arrived at the dock and a Ferry was waiting

After about a 39 minute ride we were there at Washington Island as soon as as riding off the boat you feel the relaxed Island life mood . We had a hot drink at the Marina cafe

For us it was our first time at using hot showers and we were off to our host . They did not disappoint the most delightful couple Pat and Doug made us welcome and we pitched our tent in their yard then went off to explore the Island

We had our first swim this holidays finally summer is here well summer in Washington the water was 60 degrees F very cold to our temperate waters of the tropics .we swam at school house beach .

A pebble beach as you can see but the pebbles were warm to lay on when you got out .

We also rode down to Jackson Harbour where we will get the ferry to Rock Island you can only walk around this Island not even ride your bike so we will be locking them up somewhere .

We were treated to seeing the friendly foxes tonight by our host family they are quite small and are more cat like with their short ears .

Looking forward to tomorrow for more experiences .